![]() ![]() ![]() Anycubic didn’t provide a scraper because you don’t need a scraper with this plate. Most prints pop off when the bed cools down, but larger or more sticky PETG prints can be removed easily by flexing the plate. The advantage is if you damage one side, you can flip the plate over and it’s just like new. This one is a double sided sheet, with both sides having the same texture. ![]() I was very happy to see that the Kobra Neo continues to use a textured PEI coated spring steel plate, held down with a magnetic sheet. There’s a 32-bit board, silent stepper motors and extremely quiet fans. The machine weighs about 16 pounds, making it fairly easy to move. The electronics and 400w power supply are the same, and still tucked under the build plate, giving it a nice neat footprint. Original Anycubic Kobra hotend on the left, Kobra Neo hotend on the right. Remove the filament when there is no more tension on the plastic. Let the tool head preheat, select Filament Unload and let the gears back the filament out. Removing the filament works the same, just in reverse. You WILL need to be on standby to press stop, it will not stop on its own. Press stop when the filament begins to flow from the nozzle. Place the filament in the hole at the top of the drive and once it is hot it will grab on. To load filament, press Menu on the home screen, then Prepare, and finally Preheat PLA (or Preheat ABS for a higher setting). This makes filament loading a lot easier for beginners with everything in the front of the machine. The Anycubic Kobra NEO has a direct drive tool head – meaning that the extruder gears, fans and hotend are all in one small package. Loading Filament in the Anycubic Kobra Neo You may still need to adjust the Z height during the test print, but now you’ll only be a few clicks of the knob from perfection. Return to Leveling → Z height, place a piece of paper under the nozzle and VERY slowly adjust the Z until the nozzle just scrapes the bed. Now select the Z axis and confirm that you are at “0” for the height. Instead, I suggest you first visit the “Move Axis” menu, home the printer, then select disable steppers and manually push the nozzle to the center of the bed. #Entwined with you amazon manual#The manual suggests you adjust the Z while you’re running the test print, which took me three tries (and I’m not a beginner). See our handy guide on bed leveling to get an idea how close you should get.Īnycubic didn’t include a special program for setting the Z height on the Kobra Neo, which might confuse some beginners. The next step is to set the Z height, which places the nozzle the perfect distance from the bed. It’s important to note the auto leveling can only tell where the sensor is located, not the nozzle itself. ![]() The sensor hovers a few millimeters above the bed, not allowing the nozzle to touch during the process. It will home the bed, heat up, then double tap 25 spots in a grid across the bed surface. Then select Leveling →Auto Leveling and the printer takes care of the rest. To level the bed, select Menu from the home screen. There are no knobs for manual tramming and everything is done through the printer’s touch screen. This is the same leveling sensor on the standard Kobra and Kobra Go, which detects the metal surface of the build plate while hovering a few millimeters above it. The Anycubic Kobra Neo comes with an inductive automatic bed leveling sensor, which uses a non-contact magnetic probe. ![]()
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